Note: The events in this blog post happened over a month ago. Various versions of it have been sitting in my drafts folder for ... over a month. Better late than never, right? Is it too late to sneak that in as a New Year's resolution? No, it's not too late! Because it's better late than never. (We could do this all day, couldn't we?)
It should be no surprise that I'm a big fan of fried chicken. We're not just friendly -- we're downright intimate. I briefly had the fried chicken at Willie Mae's Scotch House in New Orleans as my cover photo on Facebook, until I replaced it with the steak from Peter Luger. Once, when I was two, I asked my aunt to make me a dish consisting solely of fried chicken skin. Just writing this paragraph makes me want to run over to Popeyes immediately.
But it appears that even I might have my limits. Recently [note: now "not that recently"], my love of fried chicken would be put to the test, taking me down a winding path and back up again, questioning my tastes, the mysteries of the universe, the... Oh, let's just say I ate a heck of a lot of fried chicken.
FRIED CHICKEN #1: THE REDHEAD
Not long ago ["months ago"], my friend Alexis was in town, and we made plans to have dinner with some former coworkers. One option I suggested was The Redhead in the East Village, which is known for its fried chicken -- so much so that it was named New York's best "fancy-pants fried chicken" by Serious Eats. Since Alexis and I share a love not only of bad romantic comedies, Penny Can, treating yo'self and things Liz Lemon says but also of fried chicken, this was a no-brainer. Redhead it would be.
The chicken (which I'd had before) at Redhead is, indeed, awfully good, though it doesn't surpass my favorite fried chicken at Brooklyn Bowl. Maybe because the Redhead fried chicken has a bit more batter and loud crunch to it, whereas I like mine with a tad less. Also, since this is a nice-ish sit-down restaurant, I ate the chicken with a fork and knife -- daintily, like a grown-up. It comes with a great kale, apple and walnut salad that provides a nice counterbalance to the heaviness of the fried chicken. In fact, this may be sacrilegious to say, but I almost found that salad more memorable than the chicken itself. Still, I wouldn't kick this chicken out of bed for being fried chicken.

(photo courtesy Serious Eats)
We had a lovely time, and on the way home I stopped by Momofuku Milk Bar to buy a whole Crack Pie for a dinner party the next night.
The moment I got home, I found a message waiting for me from the host of the dinner party: The party was being canceled.
FRIED CHICKEN #2: GEORGIA'S EASTSIDE BBQ
Well, here I was, all dressed up with a $45 Crack Pie and nowhere to go. And believe you me, if I were left alone with the Crack Pie, there was every possibility I would eat the entire thing myself. It would be more or less like eating six sticks of butter and downing it with half a bag of sugar. (Except more delicious.)
I needed someone to save me from myself. The next day I texted Annah, who loves Momofuku and has two kids and a husband (read: enthusiastic mouths to help me eat the pie). "Of course, we'd love to!" she responded. Relief. I headed over there, pie in hand; and she asked what kind of food I wanted to order. "How about Georgia's?" she suggested. "I don't want to build you up too much, but they make my favorite fried chicken in the city."
More fried chicken. I hesitated for about half a second, then felt guilty for hesitating. I'd never eaten at Georgia's and had wanted to try it for a while -- plus, after all, she'd said the magic phrase "favorite fried chicken." Them's fighting words.
Georgia's fried chicken oozed juiciness; it was crispy, but the batter was lighter than Redhead's. This was the kind of fried chicken you eat with your hands, and oh, I did. Delicious. The pieces seemed curiously small, not because they necessarily were small, but because I wanted more. I ate the chicken so fast, I forgot to take a picture (and I can't find a good one on the Internet -- oh well, will just have to eat there again).
As for the Crack Pie, Annah's four-year-old was unimpressed, and didn't want to finish his slice. (Annah and I, meanwhile, had two each.) But her two-year-old devoured hers, then delighted my Crack Pie-loving heart by asking for more and yelling out, "Pie! Pie! Pie!" Sweetie, in the future, when you're addicted and wandering the streets looking for more Crack Pie, please be sure to include the "pie" part.
FRIED CHICKEN #3: HENRY'S END
On my way home, I got a text from my friend N. agreeing on plans to have dinner the next night. She asked if I had thoughts on food, and then she texted: "I have to admit I have been thinking about fried chicken."
Pause. Laugh. I may consider myself a fried chicken-phile, but at that very moment, two dinners down, I could not fathom eating fried chicken again. Then I thought some more. Hmm. Fried chicken, three nights in a row? Would consuming that much fried chicken be the equivalent of locking myself in a closet with a carton of cigarettes, killing my love of a glorious vice forever? Or was this, perhaps, my Mount Everest, my White Whale -- a feat that most mortals would never attempt, but that, having been conquered, would cement my status in some mythical Fried Chicken Hall of Fame*?
CHALLENGE ACCEPTED. "Sure," I texted back.
At first I'd suggested Seersucker, but at the last minute, I changed my mind and asked N. if we could instead go to Henry's End, a neighborhood restaurant I'd been meaning to try; its chicken was lauded on message boards as an unheralded treat. She was game.**
Henry's End describes its "Southern Fried Chicken" as including "garlic, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove." Taste-wise, the chicken lived up to its billing. More than anything, the cinnamon flavor came through strongly and cleanly, and it was certainly unlike the previous two nights' fried chicken.
But it was unlike the previous two nights' fried chicken in other ways that didn't do it much favor. The batter was dense, not light and crackly; and the chicken itself was cooked fine, but not oozing with juices. This was another fork-and-knife affair, and the pieces were intimidatingly large (why do fried chicken breasts always look so massive on a plate?). It wasn't, I have to say, the most inviting plate of fried chicken I've ever had.

My fried-chicken marathon complete (if someone had suggested fried chicken for the next night, I would have politely declined, though with a pang of regret -- well, maybe unless they had suggested Korean fried chicken, in which case I could convince myself it wasn't the SAME kind of fried chicken), I took a few moments to reflect on what I'd learned along my clucky journey. And that is
1) I like eating fried chicken with my hands
2) I like fried chicken batter that tends more toward the light and crispy, rather than the dense and hard-crunchy
3) I prefer it when the meat is so juicy it runs down your hands and your chin,
4) I'm not a fan of big, bulked-up pieces of chicken that look like they've been training with Lance Armstrong***
5) I can eat fried chicken three nights in a row. Maybe I was fading at the end a bit, and perhaps that affected my judgment; but I emerged from the Fried Chicken Closet not repulsed by my former love, but instead appreciating all the more that it has so many versions of itself to offer.
All that said, I don't know that I can make a habit of this. On the other hand, steak -- hmm...
*There should totally be a Fried Chicken Hall of Fame.
** Pun not intended, given that the restaurant hosts a wild game festival. Well, pun maybe a little intended, after the fact.
***Too soon?